Discover Spain’s most magical coastline

When most tourists think of a beach holiday in Spain, their minds immediately jump to the sun-baked southern region of Andalusia, with its golden beaches and simmering flamenco music. But down there the sultry temperatures turn to searing heat in the summer months, and it’s often unbearably crowded with tourists.

So instead follow the lead of the Spaniards and turn your attention north, to the breathtaking Atlantic coastline. Stretching across the top of Spain, west from San Sebastian across the top of the country and then down to the border with Portugal, it offers an entirely different experience to the south.

The temperatures are cooler, though still warm in the summer months. The food sparkles with freshness, featuring light seafood along the coast and richer meats and saucier dishes inland. The landscapes are lush and green. The coast is dotted with quaint fishing villages and endless pristine beaches. Best of all, it is sparsely occupied by tourists compared to the busy south. 

The northern coast of Spain covers four regions: Basque Country, Cantabria, Asturias and Galicia. Each has its own character and specialities, and the best way to explore them is to rent a car and settle in for a road trip heading along picturesque motorways suspended over tree-filled valleys heading west, roughly following the Camino del Norte walking route that is popular with pilgrims and hikers.

The famous Gilda pintxos is a must-try in San Sebastian. (Photo: Alex Lalak)

Basque Country

Start in San Sebastian, a town that is small but punches well above its weight in the food stakes. Accommodation is pricey by Spanish standards and mixed quality, so start with a splurge at the luxurious Hotel Maria Cristina right in the centre of town. Then wander around the old town stopping for pintxos (small snacks, often served on bread) at any bar that takes your fancy, such as Bodega Donostiarra, which is famous for its cured meats. If you’re short on time, do a Pintxos and Wine tour with local cooking school Mimo who will show you all the best places (including the bar where the ‘Gilda’ pintxos of olive, anchovy and pickled pepper was invented).

From San Sebastian head west and a little south to Asador Etxebarri, the barbeque temple that is an essential stop in this part of the world. Make sure you book well in advance as it’s currently listed as the #3 restaurant in the world so it can be tough to score a table. But persist and you’ll be rewarded with life-changing coal-roasted fish, house-made chorizo and dry-aged beef.

On to Bilbao, where the top attraction is the glimmering Guggenheim Museum. Stop for a photo with the famous 12m high Jeff Koons Puppy sculpture out the front of the museum then stroll along the river down to Bar La Taska de Isozaki for a delicious lunch of tender slices of octopus dusted in paprika, crisp croquettes flavoured with ham and grilled steak served alongside a mound of sweet roasted red peppers.

Anchovies and roasted peppers doused in local olive oil at Restaurante La Mayor in Santander. (Photo: Alex Lalak)

Cantabria 

The least touristy of the northern regions of Spain, Cantabria is a humble neighbour to the flashier Basque country, but no less beautiful. The capital is the port town of Santander, which is more charming than you might expect and home to several excellent seafood restaurants. But the accommodation options are a little charmless, so stay outside the town at either the budget-friendly Hotel Los Guardeses or the slightly more luxe Parador de Santillana Gil Blas and drive in for dinner.

The locals love Restaurante La Mayor, a no-frills eatery serving surprisingly sophisticated fare, from anchovies with red peppers to fragrant garlic infused cockles plus simply grilled squid and red mullet. Don’t miss ordering a plate of the homemade morcilla (blood sausage with rice and caramelized onions) from the hand-embroidered menu on the bar made by the owner’s wife. Another tourist favourite is Bodega La Conveniente, a tavern-style bar with live piano music and huge portions, or you can try the more upmarket Cañadío down the street if you’re looking for something a little more refined.

Try the tortos at Sidrería Tierra Astur Gascona in Oviedo. (Photo: Alex Lalak)

Asturias

Go along the coast to the charming boutique Hotel Eutimio in Lastres, where you can wake up to sea spray and ocean views and lunch on grilled fish followed by their famous cheesecake. Then head inland to Oviedo, a bustling and festive city that is a popular stop for camino pilgrims.

Stay at Casa Camila, a sweet B&B with incredible views perched up on the hill overlooking Oviedo, then head into town for a modern Spanish meal at Gloria where they serve all dishes as either a full size dish, half portion or mini tapas. Or if you’re feeling really hungry head to Calle Gascona, a street full of cider houses serving hearty food in giant portions. Sidrería Tierra Astur Gascona is a good option for tortos (small corn cakes topped with meat) and local speciality cachopo (a huge thin breaded veal fillet stuffed with ham and cheese). It should all be washed down with the not-so-sweet local cider that the waiters pour in the traditional way, with the bottle held above their head and the glass down near their knees.

Enjoy stunning views from your bedroom at the A Miranda boutique hotel. (Photo: Supplied)

Galicia

The largest of the northern regions, Galicia offers much to see and do. Stay at the quaint and comfortable Hotel Rural Casa Xusto and head to the town of Ribadeo for a seafood feast at Restaurante San Miguel, which overlooks an estuary that is the source of many of their ingredients. On the coast is Porto de Rinlo, a hotel and restaurant famous for its epic lobster rice, a soupy yet luxurious concoction that is enough for at least three people.

The highlight of this area is As Catedrais beach, a natural coastal cliff area with caves that can only be accessed at low tide. Entry is free but strictly controlled so you need to register online in advance, but it’s a small amount of effort to access this magnificent piece of coastline with a famous rock archway.

Further along the coast is the modern boutique hotel A Miranda, which is a good stop on the way to port city of A Coruña that is home to an impressive ancient fort with an archaeological museum. For lunch try A Taberna de Cunqueiro and order the local scallops and grilled squid. Then drive south to Santiago de Compostela, the end point of all the camino pilgrimage routes and supposedly home to the remains of St. James. The streets are filled with celebrations and the joyous singing of pilgrims, and the cathedral in the centre of the city is a must see.

But rather than stay here, head a little further south to Pontevedra, which has a well-preserved old town filled with bars and restaurants. Spend the night at either the glamorous Parador de Pontevedra or the more budget friendly Hotel Restaurante Rúas, then head to either Bar Estrella for classic tapas or to Eirado da Leña for an upmarket take on Galician classics such as smoked scallops and tempura oysters.

For a final hurrah, book a table at D'Berto in O Grove, a seafood restaurant many locals and chefs consider to be the best in Galicia. Here you can feast on extravagant dishes like fried lobster and plates of briny local oysters for a fraction of the price you would pay in other countries, and toast the end of your pilgrimage of sorts across northern Spain.