The ultimate insider’s guide to Lisbon
Everybody’s talking about Lisbon right now, or so it seems. Interest in the Portuguese capital has exploded in recent years and the city is topping most “must see” lists thanks to its alluring combination of mild weather, low prices, friendly locals and easy accessibility.
Yet constant development over the past decade means that experiences when visiting the city can be a mixed bag.
Think tourist trap shops, overpriced bars with cheap wine, overcrowded beaches, brutal parking fines and inedible food. Even if you look to online reviews for guidance it’s still shockingly easy to make bad choices that could potentially ruin your trip.
The only way to truly succeed is to follow the advice of the people who know what’s good and what to avoid: the locals. Residents of Lisbon are relentlessly social and love going out and engaging with their city – which means they know exactly where to go to find extraordinary food, delicious natural wine, breathtaking views and quiet stretches of sandy beaches.
Lisbon viewed from one of the city’s many miraduros (viewpoints). (Photo: Alex Lalak)
I recently spend a month in Lisbon, visiting an Australian expat friend who has lived there since 2017. With her help, and the generous input of her many friends (some expats, and others native to Lisbon) I was able to unlock the secrets of this remarkable city.
But it wasn’t all smooth sailing. My initial hesitations about pumping the locals for information lead to some harsh lessons in the form of hefty parking fines and one of the worst meals I’ve ever been served. But I soon overcame my shyness and started collecting tips from everyone I met, from friends to Airbnb hosts to shopkeepers.
Top of my list of things I wanted to know was where the locals eat. Lisboetas (as the locals are known) love going out for meals, and they know exactly where to get the best food for a fair price.
O Pitéu da Graça is the perfect example of this sort of place. Located in one of the hottest neighbourhoods in Lisbon, it is humble and packed with locals ordering up its huge plates of cuttlefish gently fried with potatoes and black olives and finished with curry powder. Also popular is Zé da Mouraria where local dishes such as stewed veal and codfish with chickpeas are served on vast platters for sharing, so bring friends and your appetite. For something a little fancier, try Cavalariça where you can snack on modern-Portuguese tapas such as oysters with passionfruit under the watchful eye of a unicorn statue.
Be warned that many restaurants, especially the ones frequented by locals, are strictly cash only, or will only take Portuguese cards. It’s also common practise for waiters to put a selection of starters (such as bread, cheese and olives) on your table when you arrive, and if you eat them, you are expected to pay for them at the end of the meal. If you don’t want them, don’t touch them and politely ask the waiter to take them away.
The seafood platter at Atlantic Grill. (Photo: Alex Lalak)
Ordering a simple drink can also be challenging, as wine quality can vary dramatically and cocktails tend to be heavily sweetened. Stick to natural wines wherever possible by seeking out one of the new wine bars popping up across the city, such as Italian-owned local favourite Vino Vero, or try the popular Portuguese “green” wine, which is slightly sparkling and consistently drinkable.
Another thing you quickly discover if you travel to Lisbon during the warmer months (from April through to the end of October) is that this is very much a beach city and there are dozens of sandy coves to explore within a relatively short distance from the centre of town. The easiest option is to jump on the train at Cais do Sodré (at the heart of downtown Lisbon) heading towards Cascais, which is a bit like the local Byron Bay. The full journey takes around 40 minutes and runs along the coast with spectacular views, stopping periodically at various beaches.
Carcavelos beach is the biggest on the strip offering plenty of golden sand for sunbaking and volleyball. But locals prefer the quiet little beach at Parede, where you can stop for a sunset glass of sangria at the popular bar Adamastor or head down the road to the Atlantic Grill for one of the best seafood meals of your life.
The unbeatable view from Ponto Final. (Photo: Alex Lalak)
Locals are also passionate about viewing their city from different angles, and there are many ways to do this. Lisbon sprawls across seven hills and at the top of many of these peaks you’ll find miradouros (view points) that often feature tiny kiosks serving drinks and snacks. People flock to these spots at sunset to enjoy the view of the glowing peachy rooftops before ambling off for dinner at a nearby tasca (traditional Portuguese restaurant).
Alternatively you can jump on a ferry across to Cacilhas, wander along the harbour’s edge and stop for whole grilled fish at the breathtaking Ponto Final restaurant that has tables lined up along the water’s edge and sweeping panoramic views of the city back across the water. But book ahead or risk waiting up to two hours for a table.
There are plenty of day trip options within an easy distance from Lisbon and locals love exploring their region. Do as they do and cruise up to Sintra to see the fairy-tale summer palaces once inhabited by royalty or over to Nazare to see the big wave surfers break world records during the competition season. The beaches around Arrábida are also said to be some of the most beautiful in Europe and are a great source of local pride.
Just be warned, if you hire a car, be very careful where you leave it. For a relaxed city, Lisbon is notoriously strict with its parking and has a system in place that strongly favours the locals so it doesn’t take much to get a fine or to have your car towed away. Err on the side of caution and keep your rental in one of the enclosed overnight parking stations.
Finally, when it comes to taking home mementos of your Lisbon adventure, ceramics are the way to go. Do as the locals do and buy your pieces by the kilo from Cerâmicas na Linha, a treasure trove of Portuguese wares including the famous kaleidoscopically patterned tiles. Items are priced by weight and they are happy to post internationally, so your souvenirs will be waiting for you when you get home.
